Day 9 Santa Cilia to Artieda

Marion

Today we decided we needed to start a bit earlier so that we could rather walk most of our walk in the cooler part of the as as it so very hot by lunchtime. Val´s alarm went off at 6.00am this morning so we were up and out of the room to dress in the passage so that we did not disturb the others. Can you imagine all of us standing on the steps with all our belongings, folding up our sleeping bags, puting everything in our backpacks and getting ready to go and then creeping down the stairs then to the kitchen to get our breakfast.

We were on the road by 7.15am. Most of our walking was through farm land lots of golden wheat fields with a scattering of wild poppies every now and again. We walked on a path of sand and stone lots of wild flowers alongside us. It was quite flat and again very hot with very little shade. We stopped at a little village called Martas, unfortunately no shops at all, so no coffee. Luckily we saw three elderly men sitting on a bench and the one showed us where we could get some cold water to fill our bottles. We then walked through the Lunar valley, it was quite weird, hills that are soft rock, grey coloured and it looked like they had a top layer of very fine looking gravel. The village that we were going to stop at Artieda was on a top of a hill, it was quite a climb. At the bottom of the hill was about a dozen Royal Eagles flying around and whilst I was walking up I could not help but wonder if they were watching to see if I would make it to the top and if I did not would I be good food for them. I was exhausted by the time I had reached the top, at first could not undrstand why I found the day so tiring but then realized how I had perspired in the heat and had not had enough carbs and salt, also had not had enough to drink. I straight away started drinking water and eating carbs and some salt. Even though it was a tiring day it was wonderful.

Val Minister of Nutrition

We are up early today = we want to get a head start and so it is dark when we awake. The alarm has been set for 6am and my cell phone is our alarm....but the battery is running low and I have to leave it plugged in at the bottom of Marion´s bed...I am above her in the top bunk. As such I say, Marion when the alarm goes off in the morning you must quickly turn it off so it doesn´t disturb the others. It duly goes off at 6.00am, and off and off....I lean over the bunk and whisper Marion, Marion....she cannot hear me...´the poor French girls head is next to the bench that the phone is on and in a sleepy voice says "oh Sil o plait, oh sil of plat....which interpreted comes out like the teenagers say " oh pleazeeee" finally Marion awakes and unplugs the phone and hands it up to me....my sorry´s do nothing to compensate for the intrusion....we all sneak out and then go back and back again to move our things from the Dorm to the landing to dress and sort out....I have dreadful eyesight so put on my head lamp and go back into the dorm, careful to keep my head low so as not to disturb them further...but the poor French girl´s head is just where I need to be and my head lamp shines right on her head...."oh Pleazeeeee"...I think this morning I have crossed the line of Pilgrim etiquette! One does not wake up nor disturb fellow pilgrims.
We go downstairs and prepare our hot chocolate with hot fresh milk (actually it is longlife in a carton but by fresh I mean it is not in a packet). We have a breakfast bar and a banana so lots to eat and there are some late comers who are sleeping on the lounge furniture and ´hiss at us´to shutup. We give up and leave. There was a storm during the night and it is very humid. Eventually the sun comes out and there is no escape as we are in the open...quite a slog today on hard gravel paths and not much variation so you feel every km. After about 5kms I could feel my left foot stinging. I discovered scourers/sponges last time were great for putting under your bra straps to support the back pack straps - as long as you remembered to put the sponge side on the skin and scourer part against the bra strap. I hve been using them to cushion the balls of my feet, toomany pedicures have made my feet too soft. Finally I have to stop and discover that I have put the sponge around the wrong way and had the scourer against my skin and I have literally grated the underpart of my foot. I had rubbed raw. Nurse Syl comes to the rescue and dried it off with spirit and rosemary and then applied a dressing and the rest of the journey was fine. We could see our village high on the hill and it reminded us of Tuscany. We climbed and climbed andwere greeted by a lovely woman and daughter - her Albergue was also the only bar, restaurant in the place, what luck!! There were no shops and they relied on deliveries. They showed us to our rooms and once again, spotlessly clean. Asked if we would like to eat and offered us Tortilla and Salad - yes please...we had cool drinks and coffee and vino tinto. My first spanish meal. There is no internet so we will write our blog and publish when we can...have a shower and afternoon nap as they have offered us supper at 8pm and breakfast at 7am...more than we have eaten in days. We got caught out today and walked all day on a banana, apple and a third of an orange.We ask if we can get a taxi to drop us at the next village as we are a bit behind now and need to catch up about 8km to guarantee somewhere to sleep. yes we are the taxi also she says! The wind is up now and it is trying to rain (5pm)We get ready to go down and I go to climb off the top bunk...it is so high I can reach the ceiling without stretching...I crawl to the end and turnaround to come down and Syl shouts " the ladder is on the other side"...we nearly have spatchcock Val. Tonights meal is green beans, large runner beans cooked with potatoes and small dice of ham. Followed by Tortilla (which we have a lunchtime so gave that a miss), beef ragu or sausages. I choose sausages dreaming of a Spanish casserole of spicy sausages, Spanish onion, garlic, peppers and perhaps some smoked Spanish Paprika...no...4 chipolatas and chips!...followed by commercially packaged ice cream, tinned fruit salad or flan.. I choose flan which turns out to be a prepackaged creme caramel...I woof the whole lot down! Breakfast is lovely coffe, half a slice of dry bread with preserves. Also Magdamena´s...cupcakes which taste stale. However, all of this together with our accommodation cost 28 euro....The Spanish are really lovely people......

Sil

Today was a much better day for me. After the heat of yesterday and the challenging climb down from San Juan de la Pena, I found today´s walk a breeze - long and relentless, but

easy all the same.

The paths were mostly wide, open gravel or sandy paths and although it was hot we were able to stop three times for a backpack off and snack break. Val and Marion seem to find the long, flat paths more tiring than I do and it my turn to be encouraging.

We realise that we need to take in more salt and perhaps more proper carbohydrates. They eat more bread than I do but I prefer fruit and yoghurt - neither of which really replenishes salts and fluids lost by a long day´s walk. Artieda is on a hill (what´s new) and as we walk in we see a vehicle parked on a side alley with a taxi advert in the wondow. Such a tiny place with a taxi service! It also has a telephone box and I try to phone home. My card works for Marion to phone Kim in JOhannesburg but doesn´t work for me to phone Finn. I´m starting to feel home sick and need to speak to my family.

The albergue is in a hostal - some private rooms and some dorm rooms. Our room has two double bunks so we are alone in the room.

After a lunch of Tortilla Espanol and salad we had a nice hot shower and sorted out our packs. Marion and I walked to the end of the village and took photos of a stunning view of the valley with rain clouds slashing the Yesa dam. Dinner is a communal one and we shared our dinner table with three German pilgrims who could all speak English. After dinner, a French pilgrim asked the owner to take a photograph of all of us so we trooped outside for a group photo. I ask the woman in the restaurant if we can contact the taxi to take us to Ruesta tomorrow. "We are the taxi" she says. "We are the hostal, the shop and the taxi - todo!" So, we arrange for the taxi to take us 8km down the road tomorrow morning so that we can get back on track to reach Pamplona in time for Val's flight and our trains.

Day 8: Jaca to Santa Cilia

Marion
Another beautiful day, clear sky, no sign of rain at all. We started off by taking a taxi to the Monastary of San Juan de La Pena, it was such a worthwhile stop. Its amazing to see how the Monastery was built into the rock mountain. The workmanship was incredibile, and it all was so interesting. After spending approximately one hour walking through the monastary we then started walking the 7.5k´s back down to the road. At first did not understand as we started climbingfor 1k, and then the descent began, a very steep path of earth, stones and rocks. One had to be very carefull and go down quite slowly. I so enjoyed it but must admit I would not like to do it in very wet wether. At times we came across wild lavendar growing alongside of us, lots of pretty wild flowers and very colourful butterflies. At the bottom we found a cafe bar and had something to drink at Santa Cruz which was very welcome and then continued on our way up and down a another path of rocks and boulders. It was very hot and no shade. I am sure we were walking in the path that the water would come tumbling down. One could actually see where the little waterfalls would be in the wet weather or when the snow melted. I love walking off the road as in the silence I am able to listen to the sounds of nature and lose myself within myself. Have to say at the end of walking today I was quite tired but contented.

Val Minister of Nutrition
We are chucked out at 0900am so we decide to get up early and finish off on the blog. We are now up to date with our blog...still a shame that we post almost a week in one go as we know friends and family like to get an update every few days....we are getting a taxi to the Monastery this morning so Syl goes off to scout for the taxi rank and atm whilst Marion and I get our fix of ´cafe´in a bar....I also have a roll with ham and proscuitto which is served warm...delicious. The taxi rank is full of cars which are not taxis...and we along with another woman accost every one who parks and gets out of the car..."taxi" NO comes the reply...the Spanish woman actually opens their doors and is almost in when the owner of the car has to manhandle her and say No not taxi!!
We got to a hotel and the kind lady calls us a taxi and we then wait at the taxi rank....we bundle in with all of our stuff and are soon speeding up a very narrow winding road to the Monastery. It is well worth the visit and the late start we have today. It doesn´t open until 1000am and we spend at least an hour. We immediately set off on the path to our next stop. I resist singing "I´m off to Sunny Spain¨and pretend that I have never been to Benidorm! But I feel like singing because it is so beautiful. For the past 5 days we have seen a lone bird of prey - it is as if he is following us...perhaps guiding us. Our next stop should have been Arres but we will not make it as we are so late and cannot book and as such ensure our accommodation. We walk into Santa Cilia and there are two young boys playing football. .. Syl says Albergue? and they immediately walk for us to follow. We go down a side road where the entire road is running between the buildings is dug up...another village undergoing reconstruction. Other than that, there is absolutely nothing! We have walked through villages where there is a row of say 4 houses, of which only one is habitable, the ones surrounding it are ruins. They have no shops, absolutely nothing but almost always a water fountain and incredibly - recyling bins..probably more for us pilgrims than the residents. Our accommodation tonight is superb in many ways, it is bright and cheerful, the 3 storey ¨townhouse¨has colour washed walls and paintings (murals) a map and modern Male and Female Pilgrims to denote the abultions, although most often these are communal. The place is spotless and quite a few of our fellow pilgrims have all gathered here tonight and a great atmosphere exists. There is a washing machine! Marions says, "and what is this?" " a dishwasher?" I say, but it is a tumble dryer....we have not been able to wash our fleece´s as they are difficult to dry and if the weather turns we only have one, and need them in the mornings and sometimes to sleep in. They are competing with the smelly cheese now! Downstairs is a fully fitted kitchen, huge communal table and lovely open plan lounge. The next floor is a male and female dorm and lovely showers and toilets...there is liquid soap AND paper towels AND TOILET PAPER! Some places do not supply toilet paper because we pinch it. The first time I discovered this, was a bit of a shock...where the toilet rolls should have been, was a piece of cardboard with a message...I did´nt need my phrase book to know that it said something like "we no longer provide toilet paper because you nasty little Pilgrims pinch it".....In the next door cubicle is a groan and expletive - it doesn´t matter what the language, it is obvious he also forgot to check before sitting down.
On the 3rd floor is a huge room - almost like a classroom with free Internet and we manage to post a few photographs onto our blog. The use of the internet, washing machine, including powder and the tumble dryer in addition to all the other facilities is just 10 euro. The only problem now is where can we get food. Marion and I go looking around the village, and it is full of allotments with such wonderful produce including fruit trees and fruit bushes. As we pass down a narrow path we can just see over a wall with vegetables at our height - oh it is so tempting to pinch and onion and lettuce but we resist. We report back that the place is deserted. Eventually we learn that we have to walk around the corner and press the door bell and wait about 15 minutes and they will open - there is apparently a bar and food shop. A few of us go to the door and sure enough about 10 minutes later a lady appears and we set into the bar..a tiny dingy room and we are told to wait here until she is ready for us to come into the shop. The tiny bar has a shelf on the wall with grimey bottles, most without labels and I don´t ask for wine fearful that I might be given the contents of one of these bottles and so we wait for over 15 minutes for Senora to invite us into her shop behind the bar. "only two at a time!" But she allows us three in together. It is a lovely Alladins Cave- we snatch up fresh lettuce, toms, onions, peppers and garlic. A carton of milk for tomorrow with sachets of hot chocolate, apples, oranges and bananas. She doesn´t have any bread but we still have some in my backpack also some cheese. Then she says "Jamon, Chorizo?.. Chorizo I say...a huge one is taken from the fridge and she gives us a generous piece. I will lightly fry this to release the juices and add to our salad. There is a row of wine bottles, covered in dust and cobwebs...¨vino¨I say...si tinto?...si Senora..she opens another little fridge and hands me a perfectly chilled red wine. We all go back to our kitchen and start cooking...Marion and I produce our corkscrew and wine goblets and the German man, says in English ¨you do not need a man¨...then he calls everyone into the kitchen to see our goblets...they are drinking out of plastic bathroom cups. Our bread was so hard now I couldn´t cut it too well, the yellow hard cheese was desperately trying to evolve into a Stilton but tasted fine and we finished off with a piece of Lindt chocolate which had travelled for 2 days in my backpack.


Sil
We have three options today.

(1) This was the plan from home. Get a taxi to San Juan and ask him to wait for one hour then take us down to St Cilia - which means an 8km walk to Arres, our next intended stopover.

(2) Get the taxi to San Juan and walk the 7.5km back to St Cilia and 8km to Arres. That'll make it 15km walking day.

(3) Get a bus at 8h10 to St Cilia and walk up to San Juan de la Pena and back again. This will make it a very long walk so we discard this idea.

Plan 1 means we walk 8kms today - or plan 2 and we walk about 15kms?
"I don´t mind to walk" says Val. "I don´t mind walking" says Marion. So, I ask the driver to take us to San Juan and we will walk back. It costs us 25€ - 35€ if he had waited. We pay 3€ (pilgrim price) to see the monastery and leave our packs behind the ticket booth. After visiting this stunning place we collect our sticks and packs. "It is not a dificult path" says the young lady in the ticket booth. "Only 7.5km". It IS a difficult path! It is rocky, narrow, VERY, Very steep and although we spent the first km going up, the rest is all down, down, down - impossible ledge paths with no hope of recovery if you wobble or stumble. At one stage it looked as though the path had disappeared into an abyss but there it was when we peered over the edge, snaking its way sideways down only to disappear again into another gully.
I was exhausted by the time we got to the bottom and even after stopping at Santa Cruz for a cold drink, I started to feel light headed and wobbly as we walked to Santa Cilia.
"I think I need to lie down" I told M and Val at one stage. We found a tiny patch of shade and I lay down with my legs up on a tree and my head on my backpack. I had goosebumps even though it was 35oC in the shade. I think I had a touch of sunstroke. When we got to Santa Cilia I headed straight for the albergue. After a shower, something to eat and a drink I felt as though I could have gone on another 5km or 8km but by then our washing was in the machine and we were very comfortable in the albergue.
A pilgrim gets very excited when she sees my shorts. She is an ex-pat South African living in Belgium. We talk about Cape Town, Johannesburg, the 1908o's and the new South Africa. She and her husband are cycling from their home to Santiago. It's a really Groot Trek!
Val´s heels are sore and her achilles are tight so I give her another foot massage. This turned out to be one of the best albergues we´ve stayed in with a very kind hospitalera, small rooms, free internet, free washing machine and tumble drier and a wonderful atmosphere. I have a bed near the window and can hear sheep baaing in the fields. I also hear thunder during the night and worry about what the paths will be like if it rains. But, I´m too tired to care tonight and drift off to sleep. It´s been a long, hard day.

Day 7: Confranc to Jaca

Marion
Another gorgeous day to wake up to, clear blue sky. We awoke early had breakfast and were on the road by 7.30am. I was so happy as we were back on the mountainside. Alongside of us we had the river Aragón which we crossed a few times. The first 2k´s we followed a wooded riverside path and then the next 3k´s was tree lined rocky path sometimes earth and scree and then onto very large gravel, or you could say rock. On the side of us were scree slopes which looked quite scary as one could imagine that sometimes the scree comes tumbling down. On the other side of us was often a steep drop to the river Aragón. We then walked onto a flatter area of low wooded hills and fields with stone walls. We had sunshine the whole day and beautiful blue sky. It was very hot by midday and my arms got quite sunburnt, unfortunately put on sun block a bit late, know better for tomorrow. On the way to Jaca I had pinned my socks onto my backpack to dry and somewhere on the way I must have lost one so now I am minus a sock, which leaves me with one pair of socks, until I can find a place to buy another pair. Syl has kindly offered to lend me a pair of hers if I need them. When we reached Jaca we could not get into our accomodation as they only opened at 4.00pm and it was just before 3.00 so we left our backpacks at the door and went off in search of a resturant for a meal. We had a delicious salad and then went back to book in. We are so lucky to have free interent where we are staying and have been able to catch up on our writing for the blog.

Sil - A rocky road to Jaca
When we walked along the road today we realised that we hadn´t seen the main part of the town of Confranc Estacion. Sometimes you arrive at your destination, shower, wash clothes, find a place to eat or shop for food and once you have seen the main attraction (this time it was the beautiful station) you don´t have much energy for further sightseeing. Today rocked! We rocked! The paths were rocks! We rocked and rolled on narrow rocky paths at the base of scree slopes on large gravel stones, crossing shored up landslides and scree beds. We kept climbing up and then going down to cross the road and walk on the other side. Then back again we go, down to the road and climb up the opposite hill. At one stage we had to duck to walk under the overpass of the main road above us, circle around the concrete supports and climb up the other side.
On one long winding rocky path we heard cowbells and kept trying to look through the hedges to see them. And then, around the corner came a shepherd and his enormous flock of sheep and goats, many of the larger animals with cowbells around their necks. We stood aside to let them pass (it was a bum to bum traffic jam!) and it seemed as though the flock was never ending. Another shepherd and his dog brought up the rear and he said that there were over 300 animals in the flock.
After exiting the countryside we entered Castillo de Jaca on a very steep village road down to the main village and highway below. Most fortified towns were built on high ground and this one was no exception. Going down, down, down we marvelled at the locals who have to walk up and down this winding, steeply graded road every day. We stopped in a lovely shady public park for biscuits and cheese and filled up our water bottles before continuing. The signs have changed from the blue and yellow of the Amis St Jacques to a combination of those and yellow arrows. It is amazing at how much you depend on those splashes of yellow. At one stage we were walking with a Frenchman from Bordeaux and missed the arrow pointing down a steep flight of wooden stairs to the road below. We retraced our steps and went down, down, down once again to join another rocky road.
There is a steep climb up to the outskirts of Jaca and then a fairly long walk into the town and to the albergue following yellow arrows and brass shells in the pavement. The albergue is very modern with cubicles and beds instead of bunks. The showers are good and the kitchen well equipped. It was closed when we arrived so we left our packs in the foyer and returned to a lovely street restaurant we´d passed on the way. We were all dying for salad so gorged on delicious fresh salads before visiting the Farmacia to buy some extra padding for our feet

Val - Minister of Nutrition Today was a lovely walk and I had to sing:

"I am walking to Pamplona

All the way to Spain

I am walking to Pamplona

In wind and sun and rain

When I get to my albergue

I will be just fine

If I have nice hot shower

and a little glass of wine".

On the way to Jaca I had pinned my socks onto my backpack to dry and somewhere on the way I must have lost one so now I am minus a sock, which leaves me with one pair of socks, until I can find a place to buy another pair. Syl has kindly offered to lend me a pair of hers if I need them. There is nothing worse than catching a glimpse of yourself in a shop window...it is not a pretty sight...however, I am sure that they modelled the wonder bra on a woman carrying a back pack...it pushes you in, up and out. Unfortunately, the stirnum strap then pushes you down and makes the smallest look well endowed but hanging low. I also look for Real Estate Offices in the hope of finding an innovative way of displaying properties but as with other countries I have not found any to be better than our own. English still has the best shop fronts. We arrive in Jaca, it is gorgeous the sun is shining, it is buzzing...pavement cafes and shops...but the shops other than the food ones, do not interest me because I cannot carry (until I get to Pamplona!).The restaurants open until around 4.30pm and then only open again at 9pm...our accommodation has a 10pm curfew so we will not be able to eat tonight. The service is good, but quite rightly relaxed and we would never get a meal served and eaten by 10pm. And so we decide to have a late lunch. Whilst I would like to eat my way through a 4 course meal, we are desperate for fresh vegetables and greens. Marion and I share a huge salad Ensalada Especial Verno for 12euros. It has a small leaved green salad as its base, similar to watercress but I cannot remember the name...we do not get it in SA. The salad has melon balls, ham, tomatoes and feta and is absolutely delicious. A vino tinto accompanies this.Well two actually. We then go and settle into our accommodation and shower, wash the flipping clothes which you know will not dry and have to be pinned on your back again. Then we get free internet access, two computers. We have to make up for 7 days of posting, 8 if you count that we start on Day minus 1....so if you started reading on Day 1, scroll back down because you have missed some! We type away until 9pm then discuss the plans for tomorrow - it is now 9.25pm and then Marion and I decide to sneak out for a glass of wine. We are told that the place closes up for the night at 10pm and so you must be back. We go into the village and find a lovely wine bar...barrels outside for tables, great wine list and wine cellar inside, tapas and lots of food to buy. We do not have time to study the wine list so quickly order two glasses of Chardonnay. Beautiful wine glasses and just the right temperature. We sit under the evening sky

watching all the locals looking happy with their children playing in the streets. Service again is very relaxed and we only get our wine at 9.40pm. We enjoy it and then realise that we still have to walk back so we call for the bill. I am struggling to find the correct word for bill and Marion simply signs to the waiter and he understands. He comes with the bill (1.60 e per glass) and I only have a 20euro note so we have to wait for change. As he moves away he stops at two tables to take their order but he is discussing the wines (quite rightly) with his customers and Marion begins to count down the time...9.52, 9.53....we are desperate, as he finishes with the last customer we run inside - not time for translation and I just hope he understands some English or the desperate look of two 50 somethings who have to be in bed

by 10pm...."Excuse me, excuse me...please the bill...we are staying at the Refugio and have a 10pm curfew"...he smiles wonderfully, and hastily gets us the change...as we are walking out I see Chirizo made from deer and wild boar...only 3.40 euros for a huge pack, I pick it up but Marion looks desperate...9.57....we are wearing crocs and quickly move into a speed walking motion and we make it inside just as the lady is zipping up her bag and walking to the door. Phew! Then to bed........

Day 5: Sarrance to Borce

Jim and Ann (Left) Sil, Val & Marion (right)

The River in front of the Fontaine Complex

Sarrance

Narrow paths on the edge of the river

Narrow, muddy paths through the forest

Negotiating a crumbling path

At last - a view!!

Marion
It was such an interesting stay at our accomodation last evening with Ann, Jim and Jerry. We all had a tour of the property and a delicious meal. Val and myself shared a room and Syl shared a room with Ann. After breakfast in the morning we set off and our 1st stop was in the centre of Sarrance.
We walked alongside the valley of IÁrrec d´Isson high above the Gave dÁspe which flows in a deep gorge. The path was very rocky and lots of mud, almost clay earth which sucked onto our boots. Most of the day was on the mountain side - it was tremendous.
We had a mountain on our left our path then the river, then the road and then another mountain on the right. Lots of green trees and sometimes a garden of flowers. Sometimes the river was right next to us and sometimes deep down below. At times the path was very rocky, we crossed over a bridge a couple ot times to the other side. We also saw a lot of Royal eagles, such beautiful birds.
Although our path went up and down we were actually climbing the whole day. At times you could see the mountains on the other side with snow on top of them.
It was such a tremendous day.

Sil
When you walk along riverine paths through a forest there are long periods when there is no light, no view and nothing to do but look at your feet. Marion loves the forest paths but I prefer them to be a bit wider than they were today! At times they seemed postively dangerous, no wider that 12cm, sloping to the long drop down to the river far below. We covered the first 5km in 2hours, up one slippery slope and then down equally slippery slopes, sometimes almost next to the raging river but at other times high above. We finally came out of the river onto a small road and climbed up to Borce, a charming, spotlessly clean village with a St James refuge (that was full when we stopped) and finally to the Communal Gite in the centre of the village. We had an 8 bed room to ourselves, managed to do most of our washing and buy soup and vegetables, bread and wine for dinner which we ate in the Gite diningroom. Until now we've been spoiled with Sebastien cooking for us in Asson, Pierre and Sebastien cooking for us in Arudy, a restaurant meal in Oloron and Richie's lovely dinner last night in Sarrance. Tomorrow night we'll be sleeping in Spain!

Val - Minister of Nutrition
After a good nights sleep, we all met in the ´the dining room´for breakfast. Corrine had laid the table with lovely bright tablecloths and crockery and there was fresh coffee brewed. We had a breakfast of bread and brioche with jams. Too much bread now!
Today I felt tired, strange given the lovely sleep. We had a lovely walk through forests and there were buildings like crofts all over, Marion and I went into one and got dive bombed by bats..horrid!We had lunch in a field...checked to see if there were any bulls as I did not carry my mace spray this time...chance to layout our wet clothes and dry them...finally some blue sky showing through for the first day.
"Syl said we had to get going"
"We said, No! No! No!
During the walk today I felt really guilty-I dream of the Pilgrim Refugio being full and we have to stay in a hotel - 4 star at least! We arrive and the "Inn is indeed full" Yipee! Despite exhaustion I could dance in a manner that would make Flattery and his dance troupe envious. Syl asks if there is a hotel (a Chambre). Non, Non just a community gite in the village....now I think..please let there be a room, I just want to be able to lie horizontally. So we walk a little further and there is the Gite with its own supermarket and what is this a BAR! With tables outside on a terrace.The Gite is a brand new dormitory style accommodation with lovely kitchen and huge pine table. The village itself is spotless and looks new, we realise it is indeed an original Medival Village which the community has restored...each building has a before and after picture on it. I sit outside, order a cold glass of wine and phone Martin.
I go back inside and ask for another wine...another she says! They are very small glasses, average cost of a glass of wine has been 1.60 euros.
We shop in the supermarket and buy soup and bread and I ask for another wine to take with me...this is your last she says!
Everywhere the name Borce is accompanied by a picture of a Bear and we ask if Borce means Bear but it doesn´t. They have 8 bears in the National Park.
Tomorrow it is apparently straight up and over the Pyrenees so we buy lots of food and treats to keep us going including chocolate - and especially an orange for old time sake...In Italy we had a day where we could not cross the river because the bridge had been destroyed...we tried to do a detour but couldn´t and over an hour and half later had to go back and cross the river....we were exhausted in 40 degree heat and had already covered 45 km...Kathy had the only piece of food remaining, an orange...we each had a segment...to this day I have never eaten a sweeter tasting orange.
Well tomorrow is Spain and I really hope it is a lot brighter in everyway than this part of France. Thankfully the beautiful Pyrenees is not overshadowed by its grey inhabitants. The people are quite scruffy and on the whole the villages have been dirty.Even young people look as if they have never had a decent haircut and their clothes are just whatever they grabbed that morning. Sorry but that is my opinion...cannot really comment on the food as we only had the opportunity to eat out once.