Meetings, training, paperwork etc

Preparations: There is a lot to do in preparing for a long trek (or a series of short ones!) When you live on the other side of the globe you have to make meticulous plans in order for everything to go smoothly. Only then can you walk with peace of mind knowing that the groundwork has been done, that you will make that connection between airport and train and there are no uncertainties about planes, trains or sutomobolies! Once you have decided on an itinerary of sorts - start and end dates agreed upon - all the travel plans have to be made.

Meetings:
We've now had two meetings - the first at Val's place and the second a lunch meeting here last week. I did a vegetable stack for lunch with scallop shell polenta and served it with assorted pestos.
We started off deciding on which airline to fly, where to fly to, how to get to the start of our walk.
We have booked on Iberia from Johannesburg to Toulouse. We will get a train to Lourdes and start walking from there. We've discovered that the times of our flights from Johannesburg to Madrid have been changed from 22h30 to 20h30. Our connecting flights from Durban to Johannesburg will get us there with time to spare. We get to Madrid earlier and have a longer wait for our flights to Lourdes, which have not changed.
We get to Lourdes at 11h10 and we agreed not to rush to get the midday train from Toulouse to Lourdes but to rather have lunch somewhere and get the 14h00 train which is a faster train and gets to Lourdes only 1 hour after the midday train. Making this decision now means that we don't have to bust a gut trying to get from the airport at Toulouse to the train station in an hour.
We have booked a hotel room for the first night, only 15 euro each at Hotel San Etienne, so it won't break the bank!
We've agreed to get a bus from Puente la Reina to Pamplona rather than walk there as this gives us a few extra hours in both towns. We've booked a room at the Hotel Maisonwave in Pamplona (78 euro for the room) and will have a slap up dinner - courtesy of Val who leaves us there to return home, via Barcelona, the next day.
Marion and I leave for Lugo on the 20 June. When I first checked the train times from Pamplona to Lugo, they left at 12h36. Between now and the 13th June they leave at 13h07. We'll have to check the departure times again before we leave Pamplona on 20th June.
Because Marion and I will arrive in Lugo around 10pm, I have booked us in the hotel closest to the railway station, Hotel Muralla. There is only one bus in the afternoon to Ferrol so we'll get an early morning bus to A Coruna and from there a bus to Ferrol. We've decided to start walking to Neda in the afternoon which will leave us with a short walk to Pontedeume the next day.
I have booked us into the Hostal Paza de Agra (where I've stayed twice before) in Santiago, 40 euro for a double room. Marion leaves me the next day and I start walking to Finisterre. Because I plan on leaving after the midday mass, I decided to book into the hotel Tamara in Negreira which has a special rate of 25 euro for pilgrims. The albergue only has 20 beds and its bound to be full by 6pm.
I am planning on taking 4 days to Finisterre and back to Corcubion, arriving there on 30th June.
Training:
We have done walks that we did earlier in the year and have found that we are flying up the hills and are coping with long distances. We are still walking on the beachfront twice a week - two new wanna-be camino pilgrims, Phyllis and Eugenie have joined us - we walk with Highway AC on Saturday mornings and doing a long walk ± 20kms on a Sunday. We'll have a weekend away in the 'Berg on the 15/16th May to do some proper hiking in the mountains. Our backpacks are comfortable and mine has remained constant at just under 5kg.
Paperwork:
We checked through our e-tickets, insurance, hotel booking confirmations etc. I have sent my tickets, passport etc to the Spanish Embassy with the application for a Schengen Visa. We have all got our FOREX in cash and cards.
I have downloaded strip maps for the route from Lourdes to Somport and profile maps from Somport to Puente la Reina and will photocopy relevant pages from the CSJ & Miam Miam Dodo Arles guide. The three of us will share carrying the maps and guide pages. I've also downloaded guide books for the Ingles which Marion and I will share as well as a guide for the Fistera.
Countdown:
We have got 4 weeks, 3 days and counting!!

PLANNING IS SUCH FUN!!!

Half of the fun of going on a long trek is in the planning. Where to start? How to get to the start? How many days to walk? Ordering the guide book, reading other people's diaries. Then the big decisions - boots or shoes: sleeping bag or liner: fleece or thermals.
I have the Arles to Puente la Reina guide from the CSJ UK - also the Miam Mian Dodo guide that includes the Aragones.

We decided on starting at Lourdes so we have booked our multi-flight tickets from Durban to Johannesburg to Toulouse and home from Santiago on Iberia. http://www.iberia.com/
Remember to change to your country and your language (top left of the screen) before you start searching the timetable - and click on mulitple-routes to get to the window that allows you up to 6 changes.

We will get a tain to Lourdes from Toulouse. http://www.voyages-sncf.com/
There is a train at 12h09 that arrives at 15h04: Then there is a train at 14h00 that gets in at 15h53. So we have to decide, do we want to rush to get the 12h09 train that takes almost 3 hours or do we wait for the 14h00 train that takes less than 2 hours. Decisions, decisions!

We have decided to stay in a hotel in Lourdes to get over the Jet lag. It is the Hotel Saint Etienne ** 61, Boulevard de la Grotte. http://www.hotel-saintetienne-lourdes.com/ contact@hotelsaintetienne-lourdes.com Triple room 46€. 250 metres from the entrance to the sanctuaries (Porte St Michel) Continental breakfast is not included - 4.50€ Services: Souvenirs/Gift Shop, Packed Lunches

We want to take part in the Torchlight Marian Procession which takes place each evening at 9.00 pm (as it has done since 1872.) During the Procession, the pilgrims walk in groups behind their pilgrimage banner. Everyone is invited to carry a lighted candle in their hand – a reminder of Baptism. The procession lasts about 1½ hours. Candles are bought in the town before entering the Sanctuary.At the end of the Procession, the Priests and Bishops present give the Blessing.
The welcoming of pilgrims and announcements begin at 20.45. The Evening Procession begins from the Grotto and ends in the square in front of the Rosary Basilica. Between torches, pilgrims carry a statue of Our Lady (a copy of the Cabuchet statue of the Blessed Virgin).

http://www.lourdes-france.org/index.php?goto_centre=ru&contexte=en&id=478&id_rubrique=478

Our schedule for the walk to Puente la Reina is almost complete but, hey, one never knows how it will change once we are walking! The comments on the accommodation is from pilgrims who have walked this route.

Asson:
Pilgrim accommodation: Accueil Saint Jacques, 3, rue des Pyrénées , Asson Tél : 05 5 71 04 83 leon.laclau@free.fr Capacité : Sleeps 4 Prix : 10 € / nuit
http://www.asson.fr/vivre/asson-vivre-associations-stmartin.htm?CTX=/FR/liste_locations.php,399*#=52

Arudy:
B&B facilities and camp site: http://www.ot-arudy.fr/pages/index.php

Oloron Ste Marie:
Pilgrim accommodation: Relais du Bastet, 12, place de la Résistance Tel. 06 77 19 82 85 12,50 € per night 2€ for sheets.
Or: “Maison Guerra Laroque, run by a very helpful Canadian named Pierre who advised me that the way is well marked to Somport (the stretch I did from Urdos, along the 'route ancienne d'espane' was fine). It is a really beautiful area. You can get a Credential from Pierre, and his Refuge in the Rue Revol is a delight.” Sleeps 5
Or: Patchwork http://hebergement-patchwork.oloron-ste-marie.com/indexe.html Pilgrims/walkers : (accommodation up to 4/7 pers.) : 12 euros/pers./night, without sheets/towels: option breakfast: 5 euros; option evening meal 8.50 euros

Sarrance:
Former monastery, phone in advance! Les Fontaines d’Escot, a former monastery and St James study Centre has been for centuries a refuge for St James pilgrims. We are 200m from the path you just have to cross the river bridge. We offer special discounts for pilgrims: Two pilgrims in a twin or double room is €13 each pilgrim
http://fontaines.selfip.com/pyrenees-bandb-simple-rooms.php

Borce:
Pilgrim accommodation:

"This former hospital St Jacques (also known as Hospitalet), is recognizable because it is shaped like a chapel with a steeple. It has been redeveloped into a museum and refuge for pilgrims and hikers. Sleeps 6 .

(Many of these photos are from the Aspe website) http://vppyr.free.fr/pages_transversales/voies_aspe/aspe_pat06_borce.php

CANFRANC ESTACION:
Pepito Grillo.Habitaciones hostel multiple sleep-sac, should be open all year. Price: 8€ Tel: 974-37-31-23 CANFRANC TOWN http://www.pepitogrillo.com/ The hostel offers a place to rest pilgrims going to pass 4 bed room 56.00 € - Habitación 4 personas Incl breakfast.

http://www.sargantana.info/canfranc/tarifascanfranc.pdf
Albergue Sargantana 55€ 4 bed-room sleep sac in multiple rooms, open all año.Teléf: 974-37-32-17 Villanúa Tritón hostel in the old town, 8€ in rooms sleeping bag múltiples.Teléf: 974-37-82-81

http://www.aspecanfranc.com/

JACA:
Refugio, newly built, Tel: 974-35-51-16. Excellent rehabilitation of the old hospital of pilgrims in the streets Conde Aznar. 6€

The following photographs are from:

http://www.jacajacobea.com/listado_albergues.php

ARRES:
Shelter, run by volunteers, comfortable and fraternal, has 20 beds. http://www.santacilia.es/seccion0205.shtml
“Arres is a little like Hontanas on the Meseta in that it just suddenly "appears". The path meanders around the hillside, turns a corner, and lo and behold, there is the village! It is a beautifully restored house (as is Santa Cilia - cared for by a woman in the village at that time) and when I was there the hospitalero took it upon himself to cook dinner for us (there was no shop in the village - there was in Sta Cilia). Arres is a special place, and all the pilgrims were taken to a place to watch the sunset, then to the church for a special "blessing" and in the morning we were woken early for breakfast, given a sandwich and sent on our way in the dawn light, a wonderful experience clambering down the hillside path stopping frequently to watch the magical sunrise.”

RUESTA
Refuge in the two houses rehabilitated. 72 in bunk beds, hot water, heating, blankets, lounge and dining room. Sleep is 10 € - breakfast 3.50€ more. They also provide meals for 7 euros and prepare food bags for 4 euros. Phone: 948-39-80-82. http://www.ruesta.com/albergues.htm http://www.ruesta.com/precios.htm

SANGÜESA
Refuge in Labrit street. Run by the Daughters of Charity, who kept clean and cozy. It is essential to have a credential. Keys from the City residence. Phone: 948-87-00-42. 8€
Hotel Yamaguchi. Tel: 948-87-01-27; double with bath, from 40 euros.
The pension Navas. Tel: 948-87-00-77; double with shared bath, 25 euros.

Izco
Refugio, new construction. Eight beds in bunks, with hot water, kitchen and lounge. Open from May 15 to October 15. The keys are in the sale of Izco. Phone: 948-36-21-29. It costs 6€

TIEBAS
Refugio, very basic, but serves for the night.. To shower, use the front of the locker room or the pool. Voluntary donation. Keys, Jose Mari. Tel: 948-36-02-22

Puenta La Reina:
We will take a bus from here to Pamplona as Val has to fly home the next day.
http://www.laestellesa.com/servicios/Segunda.asp

Pamplona:
Albergues, hostals, hotels etc., We will probably stay at the Hostal Dom Luis in San Nicolas.

Val will be leaving us from here so it will be nice for her to have a place to spread out her stuff and repack for the return journey home.

Saturday 20th June: Camino Ingles
Marion and I take a train from Pamplona to Lugo. http://www.renfe.es/ We leave at 12h36 from Pamplona and arrive in Lugo at 21h00 (costs 46.10€ ). We will spend the night at a Hotel and get a bus or train from Lugo to Ferrol the following day.
Bus - Arriva.es ± 2 ¼ hours. Week days - 11:00, 13:15, 16:15, 18:30. Saturdays - 11:30, 16:15, 18:30 and Sundays - 16:15 and 18:30.
Train: 7h08 arrives 09h13.
We might have to have an early morning and take the train. I'd like to visit the Tourist Office for a stamp and a map and their Sunday hours are 10:00 to 12:30. The CSJ guide says:

The Tourist Office is on the first floor of a modern office block tucked into
the left hand side of the Plaza España (if facing the direction of the port)
They provide pilgrims with:
Credencial
Sello
Map out the route (showing 2 alternatives) from the city to the outskirts
A copy of the Xunta Guide in English
A schematic of the distances and elevations on the route (which isn’t terribly accurate!)
A Gallego phrasebook (which is perhaps too heavy to carry)
And…they have good toilets if setting off immediately from there!

This is the suggested itinerary for the Camino Ingles:

Ferrol – Pontedeume 25 kms (Albergue at Neda - 11km)
Pontedeume – Betanzos 20 kms (Albergue at Mino - 27km)
Betanzos – Hospital de Bruma 29 kms
Hospital de Bruma – Sigüeiro 24 kms (Hospital de Bruma 38km)
Següeiro – Santiago de Compostela 16 kms

AND THEN THERE WERE THREE

Now we are down to three of the original VF Five. Linda has had to withdraw for personal reasons. Val can only join us for two out of the 3.5 weeks.

It was my turn to have a luncheon get-together on Saturday. We discussed air flights, transport to Lourdes, where to stay etc.
We three will walk from Lourdes to Oloron Ste Marie, turn south to the Sompost Pass and walk the Aragones Route to Puente La Reina. We will have a rest day when we take a taxi from Jaca to San Juan de la Péna with it's massive over- hanging rock (that gives it its name). Here is a legend about San Jaun.

"One day in about 732 a noble Mozarabic youth from Saragossa went hunting deer in these mountains and he chased a steer until it fell over the cliff. The young man almost fell over as well but he was able to rein in his animal. Looking over the edge he saw the dead steer lying next to the entrance of a deep cave. Inside the cave was a tiny shrine and on the ground, lying dead with his head on a stone was the venerable hermit Juan de Atarés. The youth buried the hermit, sold all his own wordly goods and with his brother came to live in the cave. Before they diedm, they handed over the hermitage to two disciples and thus the fame of this saintly place reached the outer world. In this tiny sanctuary was born the Kingdom of Sobarbe which gave birth to the Kingdom of Aragon." (Walter Starkie - The Road to Santiago)
http://www.monasteriosanjuan.com/monasterio-san-juan-de-la-pena.php?L=en
Val will return home from Pamplona and Marion and I will be continuing on to walk the camino Ingles from Ferrol.

We had a great working lunch. I did a tapas platter and variation on the Coquille St Jacques using artichoke hearts instead of scallops. I also made polenta slices with leek and rocket, and did Caprichos (meringues) with a special almond cream. Mmm...mmm.. it was all very delicious!

I even found a bottle of white wine called Muchas Gracias.

We have all booked our flights on Iberia. We leave for Toulouse on the 4th June and get a train to Lourdes on the 5th June. Whilst in Lourdes we plan on taking part in the torchlight procession. Joy and I visited Lourdes in 2004 when we were walking the Via Turonensis but we didn't stay there. We start walking on Saturday 6th June. Can't wait!!

Yesterday the 1Time newsletter arrived in my email inbox. They have a special on until the end of June - limited number of seats at R278! That is half the price of a normal one way ticket. So, M and I booked our tickets to Johannesburg from Durban. I haven't booked my return flight yet - will wait until another special comes up in a few weeks time. We have 4 months and 16 days to go.

Val will book her flights this week. She and M have British passports - I have to apply for a Schengen Visa from the Spanish Consulate in Pretoria.

Here begins the journey .........