SNOW, ICE, RAIN AND MUD ON THE ARAGONES

A fellow pilgrim sent me this update on his Aragones walk:


I had one hell of a day yesterday!!!! Arrived in Jaca by bus from Pamplona and settled in for the night in a very nice refugio. I met two Germans who grew up in Spain. They came here two weeks ago to walk, but found that Somport, the starting place higher up in the Pyrenees, was snowed in. So they started at the nearest village about 6 km below. They returned to Jaca and wanted to do that section to complete the Camino Aragon.
That night there was thunder, lightning and pouring rain. They said that probably that meant snow in the upper altitudes, but we all made it to the lower village. There we met a Spaniard and a Frenchman who also wanted to go to Somport. When the bus came to take us up, the driver said that there was much snow and the Germans dropped out. We decided to see for ourselves.
Yes, the driver was correct...in fact a blizzard was still going on. The Frenchman took a bus back, but the Spaniard, with more grey hair than I and mischievious eyes said "Let´s try". He bought me a cup of coffee, and somehow I saw some wisdom in his eyes and decided to trust his judgement.We left and started walking but there were about 6-8 inches (16cm) of new wet snow. We could not even see the path, so walked the road down. There were few cars to dodge, and it was only a bit tense when the snowplows came by. I took a couple of Photos but not more because of the wind and snow. It was really beautiful when you could raise your head to look.
It was a very steep decline so gravity helped us down. It took a bit less than 2 hours with some stops to talk about the sites and try to photograph them.The Spaniard, Jose, had left a bicycle at the hotel at the village Canfranc Estacion and would continue on by bike. Canfranc Estacion, he told me, was used in the filming of Dr Zhivago, and is a grandiose trainstation of the early 1900´s. I continued by myself. The snow had become just cold rain. The path was a still very steep downhill trek made of rocks of various sizes from pebbles to small boulders. This made it very difficult to keep your balance, especially since the rain and runoff from the tops of the mountains turned some stretches into little streams of water. My ankles would be going one way, my knees another, and my hips still a different direction to keep balance.
Along with this being my first day of walking, I was quickly becoming very tired and hurting a bit. I knew I would not be able to make it back to Jaca, and saw that there were accommodations in Villanúa. This meant only 16 km that day, but they were strenuous ones. Just as I got to the town, the temperature dropped, and a strong wind came up. Then it began to hail...pea sized hail. To my dismay, I found the first Refugio closed...and the second...and to my horror the only hostel in town was closed. I stopped in a bar and asked about a place to stay and they told me of some hotels on the main highway. By this time the hail was thickly frozen on my hat causing the brim to droop. I walked on to the highway.
Then I saw a door open and a repairman was there talking to a lady (Isabel). I went up to them and told them of my situation. The lady invited me in, perhaps the frozen look of desparation spured her compassion. She and her husband (Felix)from Logroño were there on holiday. They made me hot tea and he phoned around to find that even the hotels on the highway were closed. He explained that the last day of ski season was Easter and that was probably the reason that everything was closed. It didn´t explain the refugios being closed...but then there were obviously not many "pilgrims" around. After sitting and warming up and getting refreshed. The weather had cleared up a bit, and Felix called the next village, Castillo de Jaca, and secured a room for me. Any room would have done, but this one had a tub...a rare and welcomed feature during my time in Spain. I soaked for a half hour. What a delight!!!!
All emotions that I experience here on the Camino, are more intense than normal. This is especially true when I experience these random acts of kindness like I did from Felix and Isabel. There seem to be a lot of mysteries on the Camino, and one is tuned to interpret them mystically. I chose to think that the hardships of that day set me up to have the peak experience of the kindness shown to me by these two EX-strangers. That is what I will take back with me from this difficult day. That is what will remain in my heart forever.GlennDay 2:The water is high here on the Camino Aragon. The crossing with the stepping stones outside of Castillo de Jaca is flooded. The man at the bar, recommended that I take the road instead. He said that a few days ago a peregrina tried to cross and fell in. She survived but had to be taken to the hospital because of the freezing water.
Later in Jaca I met some people, who, instead of turning back decided to walk the train bridge crossing across the river. I would recommend having a train schedule first if you want to try that.Had to detour once between Jaca and St. Cilia because the river crossing was not possible. A lot of the path seemed like walking through a trout stream. Oh and lots of mud too.I heard rumors that the Guardia Civil had to rescue some pilgrims within the last week off of the SJPP mountain crossing. Unsubstantiated though.Glenn

FOUR CAMINOS IN ONE

I am going to be walking a shorter distance than usual this year - just over 500km - but will be doing four caminos in one.
6th - 11th June:
About 140km on the Arles route, starting at Lourdes to Somport Pass:

12th - 19th June:
Then 170km on the Aragones from Somport to Puente la Reina:

21st - 26th June:
108 Camino Ingles

27th to 30th June:
95km from Santiago to Finisterre.

30th June - 13th July:
And then - VERY EXCITING - I'll be doing a two week volunteer stint at the Albergue San Roque run by the Asociación Gallega de Amigos del Camino de Santiago in Corcubion on the Fistera route!
Corcubion is on the coast about 8.5km from Finisterre so I will spend a night there on the 29th on my way to Finisterre and walk back again on the 30th to start my duties as hospitalera with Ana, the other volunteer.
They have 20 beds and offer meals so I am busy compiling easy recipes for 20 people. I am also going through other hospitalero's notes.
One thing that comes through loud an clear is that ".... the pilgrim arrives and the hospitalero receives her and tries to meet her immediate needs. The pilgrim talks, the hsopitalero listens. Its not about you any more.."

What kind of hospitalero will I be?
I have fond memories of many kind, welcoming hospitaleros in the albergues I've stayed in. I hope to follow their example and be a considerate, helpful and patient hospitalera. Many albergues are in run down, basic, unprepossesing buildings but it is not the structure that one remembers, it is the welcome one receives, the smile and kindness of a stranger who helps you with your backpack, offers a cool glass of water, gives you time to settle in and offers to see to your blisters. That is the kind of hospitalero I want to be.
I am going to take extra Arnica oils with me so that I can offer foot massages. The distances between towns on the Finisterre route are longer than most and I know that there will be pilgrims who would appreciated a soothing foot massage.
For two weeks I'll be cleaning toilets, scrubbing floors, pulling hair out of shower drains, making beds and preparing food for 20 people. I can't wait!!

HOTELS, HOSTALS, ALBERGUES AND BEDS

I have started booking a few places for us to stay.
We have got a room for three in Lourdes for 45.99 euro (15 euro each) at the Hotel Saint Etienne, 61, Boulevard de la Grotte http://www.hotel-saintetienne-lourdes.com/
It is close to the bridge that leads to the sanctuary so we won't have far to walk to join the candelight procession.

I've also booked 3 beds at the Accueil paroissial au Presbytère in Arudy and received this charming reply from the Abbé:

Pas de problème pour vous garder 3 lits et le repas si vous voulez pour le 7 juin. C'est la fête de ma petite ville . Il y aura peut-être un peu de bruit la nuit dans la rue. Amicalement Pierre

No problem to keep you 3 beds and meals if you want for June 7. It's party time in my small town. There may be some noise at night in the street.

And, at the Monastery in Sarrance they charge a special rate of 13 euro each for pilgrims in a double room.

The Albergue Pepito GRillo at Canfrac Estacion has also confirmed three beds for three peregrina with breakfast for 51 euro (17 euro each)

I am going to book beds in Pamplona so that we don't have to trudge around the city looking for a room and I will also book ahead in Lugo because Marion and I will only get in at about 10pm - no time to start looking for beds then.

UMHLANGA RIDGE

This week it was our turn to walk on Marion's side of town. We started at 6am at her apartment in Durban North and walked up to Umhlanga Rocks Drive - then along the ridge in a large, squigily up-and-down loop back to her place.
The Province of Kwa-Zulu Natal is like a crumpled up tapestry with undulating hills and valleys and a few rivers that start in the Drakensberg Mountain range and end in the Indian Ocean. Walking along the ridge we had stunning views of the Indian Ocean on one side and inland urban sprawl on the other.
It was a hazy day and even Durban was cloaked in smog.

SUNSHINE, BLUE SKIES AND TWO GORGES

Sunday 22nd March.
We did a walk through the Two Gorges today. One is the Kloof Falls gorge and the other is the Everton conservancy gorge. What a beautiful day to walk.
We had a full dress rehearsal with boots and spats, shorts, shirts, waist-bags, backpacks etc.
It started off coolish but the sun was shining, blue skies and spectacular scenery. The entire Kloof Gorge system lies within the Kranskloof Nature Reserve and falls under the juristriction of KZN Wildlife. We had a pit-stop at the picnic site and then continued up Kloof Falls road to the View site. Magnificent in the early morning with swallows still swooping above and the waterfall noisy and full after recent rains.
Glynis (who walked the Coast to Coast with us in 2001) and Linda walked with us too, but they didn't have backpacks.
The road up from the gorge is very steep and by the time we reached Waterfall after 2 hours walking we needed a coffee break. We stopped at the Waterfall centre and had a good stop there before carrying on along parallel to Inanda Road, turning left at La Domaine into Acutt Drive and the Everton Gorge.
Val, Marion and I decided to change from boots to sandals (might as well get used to walking in both) and walked the rest of the way back to Kloof in our sandals. I'm not so sure about the sandals anymore. They have a very high instep and after a while my left foot started feeling the pressure. I might have to have a rethink on taking them on this walk.
A good 22.5km trek this morning; backpack feels good; boots were comfortable and no hotspots or chaffing anywhere.
We had a lovely lunch at Sam Brown's in Kloof before going home.

SUNSHINE, SEA SHORE AND SANDALS

What a beautiful day it was today! It was our turn to walk in Durban North so John and I met Marion at her place just before 6am.
I decided to try out my sandals today. Most of the walk was on pavements, grass verges and on the road and this could be similar terrain to parts of the Aragones and Ingles.
We started walking to Umhlanga Rocks at 6am. I think we're getting fitter because we really motored along! Unlike last week's walk, this one is relatively flat so it is quite hard going on the muscles.
The view was a great distraction - the sea was spectacular with huge waves which has brought out all the surfers. The sky was the deepest blue and there was hardly a breeze for the first 2 hours but a little cooling breeze on the way back.
We stopped at the pavement cafe on the Umhlanga waterfront on the way back for a drink ... a-la-camino walking! When we got back to Marion's she gave us another drink and a muffin.
Next weekend I'll be in Johannesburg for their Camino Workshop but the following weekend we are going to walk "The Two Gorges" in Kloof and Everton - back to the hills!

PRETTY OLD THINGS

Sunday 1st March:
This morning we did a stunning hike. We started at the Pot and Kettle - a restaurant overlooking the scenic Valley of a Thousand Hills - down into a rural valley of small subsistence farms and horse stables. We call it the 'Wildlife Walk' because one sees all sorts of farm animals, cows crossing your path, ducks and geese, chickens, horses, as well as buck, wildebeest, zebra and other animals at the Wildlife Sanctuary on the way.
It is a tough walk with very steep up and down hills. Today it was cool and we walked through a mist belt at the top of Alverston.
John (the perennial pilgrim) and his friend Kenny joined Val, Marion and me. John is 75 and Kenny is 80 so they were a great inspiration to us 'young' ladies not to moan or groan as we trekked up and down the hills.
Walking through the small village of Botha's Hill we passed an antiques and collectibles shop called Pretty Old Things. We couldn't resist having our photo taken next to the sign! Further on we entered horse country where horses have the right of way.
Those bright red things on our boots are plastic spats that I cut out at 4h45 this morning when I saw that it might rain. We have decided to make waterproof spats (from a pattern I found on the internet) but these worked just fine this morning.

WET T-SHIRT COMPETITION!!

Today we walked in the rain - well, we didn't start off in the rain but the last 45 minutes it really came down! I wore my RSA shorts and top that I'll be walking in and we all wore our boots and backpacks.

Val, Marion, Linda, Joy and I started from uShaka Marine World on Addington Beach. The clouds were rolling in, the wind coming from the south, and all the signs were there for heavy rain. We meandered our way through the development around the canals at Timeball Square, all the way to the construction fences surrounding the new harbour pier. Then we

headed north towards the Umgeni River.

By the time we'd walked about 6km it was starting to spit. Linda and Joy turned back but us hardy three peregrinas continued, outwalking the rain all the way up to the Blue Lagoon. We had a short rest on the wall - watching herons on the sand - and then headed back south. It wasn't until we turned around and walked back that it caught up with us.

First were the sounds of thunder, then a darkening sky, then sprinkles of rain that got stronger and stronger until it felt like we were being struck by small hailstones! I pulled my little black weather jacket out of my backpack and put it on to protect my camera which was in my waistbag but Val and Marion thought the rain would pass quickly and left their raincoats in their packs. They got soaked! By the time we reached uShaka at 9h15 we all looked as though we were taking part in a wet t-shirt competition! Val and I went back to the car and got our change of clothing before joining Linda and Joy for a coffee at the Java Coffee centre.

Equipment update: The boots came up trumps - staying dry even in that heavy deluge.

The socks got wet though - perhaps we should take our gaiters after all?

And, the little black jacket worked really well, repelling the rain and keeping my precious bag with the camera in it quite dry. A good training walk today.

Next week, the Pot 'n Kettle walk. Arrrghh ... a really tough walk up and down steep, sharp hills including a section of dirt road. Can't wait!!

TRAINING WALKS AND CHIN-SPLINTS!!

Photo by PauloCesar

We talk so much on our training walks that we are in danger of developing chin-splints rather than shin-splints!

I walked with Cheryl and Val walked with Linda and the jaws were going ten-to-the-dozen! (Marion couldn't join us as she has family here from England.)

Although yesterday's trek up and down the hills of Umhlanga and La Lucia gave Cheryl shin splints within the first hour of walking the rest of us only huffed and puffed a bit.

Cheryl isn't one of the three walking in June but she is a camino peregrino and enjoys walking with us on our Sunday training walks.

We started at the Gateway shopping centre at 6am. There was a reason for choosing a shopping Mall - Val needed to look for a lightweight fleece top and we were sure that we would find one for her at one of the many stores in the mall.

We walked through the built up area around the shopping centre and then down Armstrong to the La Lucia Mall, up to William Campbell and back down again. Then it was up-up-up Armstrong back to Gateway.

Gateway is quite a smart, up-market mall so Val brought a change of clothing and had to change inside the car. (I just changed my boots for slip on sandals.) We did a few km inside the mall window shopping before having breakfast at Sam Brown's. And then hit the shops. More trudging from shop to shop.

Nothing at Woolies, de nada at Cape Union Mart, zilch at Due South, lutho at Sportsman's warehouse.

So we drove down to the Crecent and hey presto! Outdoor and Camping had a rail full of Cape Storm, lightweight fleece pull overs. Val bought a charcoal top and after visiting a couple of other shops we headed home.

In a few weeks time will start doing back-to-back training walks including a few three day walks with backpacks.

3 months and 25 days to go!!

PLANNING IS SUCH FUN!!!

Half of the fun of going on a long trek is in the planning. Where to start? How to get to the start? How many days to walk? Ordering the guide book, reading other people's diaries. Then the big decisions - boots or shoes: sleeping bag or liner: fleece or thermals.
I have the Arles to Puente la Reina guide from the CSJ UK - also the Miam Mian Dodo guide that includes the Aragones.

We decided on starting at Lourdes so we have booked our multi-flight tickets from Durban to Johannesburg to Toulouse and home from Santiago on Iberia. http://www.iberia.com/
Remember to change to your country and your language (top left of the screen) before you start searching the timetable - and click on mulitple-routes to get to the window that allows you up to 6 changes.

We will get a tain to Lourdes from Toulouse. http://www.voyages-sncf.com/
There is a train at 12h09 that arrives at 15h04: Then there is a train at 14h00 that gets in at 15h53. So we have to decide, do we want to rush to get the 12h09 train that takes almost 3 hours or do we wait for the 14h00 train that takes less than 2 hours. Decisions, decisions!

We have decided to stay in a hotel in Lourdes to get over the Jet lag. It is the Hotel Saint Etienne ** 61, Boulevard de la Grotte. http://www.hotel-saintetienne-lourdes.com/ contact@hotelsaintetienne-lourdes.com Triple room 46€. 250 metres from the entrance to the sanctuaries (Porte St Michel) Continental breakfast is not included - 4.50€ Services: Souvenirs/Gift Shop, Packed Lunches

We want to take part in the Torchlight Marian Procession which takes place each evening at 9.00 pm (as it has done since 1872.) During the Procession, the pilgrims walk in groups behind their pilgrimage banner. Everyone is invited to carry a lighted candle in their hand – a reminder of Baptism. The procession lasts about 1½ hours. Candles are bought in the town before entering the Sanctuary.At the end of the Procession, the Priests and Bishops present give the Blessing.
The welcoming of pilgrims and announcements begin at 20.45. The Evening Procession begins from the Grotto and ends in the square in front of the Rosary Basilica. Between torches, pilgrims carry a statue of Our Lady (a copy of the Cabuchet statue of the Blessed Virgin).

http://www.lourdes-france.org/index.php?goto_centre=ru&contexte=en&id=478&id_rubrique=478

Our schedule for the walk to Puente la Reina is almost complete but, hey, one never knows how it will change once we are walking! The comments on the accommodation is from pilgrims who have walked this route.

Asson:
Pilgrim accommodation: Accueil Saint Jacques, 3, rue des Pyrénées , Asson Tél : 05 5 71 04 83 leon.laclau@free.fr Capacité : Sleeps 4 Prix : 10 € / nuit
http://www.asson.fr/vivre/asson-vivre-associations-stmartin.htm?CTX=/FR/liste_locations.php,399*#=52

Arudy:
B&B facilities and camp site: http://www.ot-arudy.fr/pages/index.php

Oloron Ste Marie:
Pilgrim accommodation: Relais du Bastet, 12, place de la Résistance Tel. 06 77 19 82 85 12,50 € per night 2€ for sheets.
Or: “Maison Guerra Laroque, run by a very helpful Canadian named Pierre who advised me that the way is well marked to Somport (the stretch I did from Urdos, along the 'route ancienne d'espane' was fine). It is a really beautiful area. You can get a Credential from Pierre, and his Refuge in the Rue Revol is a delight.” Sleeps 5
Or: Patchwork http://hebergement-patchwork.oloron-ste-marie.com/indexe.html Pilgrims/walkers : (accommodation up to 4/7 pers.) : 12 euros/pers./night, without sheets/towels: option breakfast: 5 euros; option evening meal 8.50 euros

Sarrance:
Former monastery, phone in advance! Les Fontaines d’Escot, a former monastery and St James study Centre has been for centuries a refuge for St James pilgrims. We are 200m from the path you just have to cross the river bridge. We offer special discounts for pilgrims: Two pilgrims in a twin or double room is €13 each pilgrim
http://fontaines.selfip.com/pyrenees-bandb-simple-rooms.php

Borce:
Pilgrim accommodation:

"This former hospital St Jacques (also known as Hospitalet), is recognizable because it is shaped like a chapel with a steeple. It has been redeveloped into a museum and refuge for pilgrims and hikers. Sleeps 6 .

(Many of these photos are from the Aspe website) http://vppyr.free.fr/pages_transversales/voies_aspe/aspe_pat06_borce.php

CANFRANC ESTACION:
Pepito Grillo.Habitaciones hostel multiple sleep-sac, should be open all year. Price: 8€ Tel: 974-37-31-23 CANFRANC TOWN http://www.pepitogrillo.com/ The hostel offers a place to rest pilgrims going to pass 4 bed room 56.00 € - Habitación 4 personas Incl breakfast.

http://www.sargantana.info/canfranc/tarifascanfranc.pdf
Albergue Sargantana 55€ 4 bed-room sleep sac in multiple rooms, open all año.Teléf: 974-37-32-17 Villanúa Tritón hostel in the old town, 8€ in rooms sleeping bag múltiples.Teléf: 974-37-82-81

http://www.aspecanfranc.com/

JACA:
Refugio, newly built, Tel: 974-35-51-16. Excellent rehabilitation of the old hospital of pilgrims in the streets Conde Aznar. 6€

The following photographs are from:

http://www.jacajacobea.com/listado_albergues.php

ARRES:
Shelter, run by volunteers, comfortable and fraternal, has 20 beds. http://www.santacilia.es/seccion0205.shtml
“Arres is a little like Hontanas on the Meseta in that it just suddenly "appears". The path meanders around the hillside, turns a corner, and lo and behold, there is the village! It is a beautifully restored house (as is Santa Cilia - cared for by a woman in the village at that time) and when I was there the hospitalero took it upon himself to cook dinner for us (there was no shop in the village - there was in Sta Cilia). Arres is a special place, and all the pilgrims were taken to a place to watch the sunset, then to the church for a special "blessing" and in the morning we were woken early for breakfast, given a sandwich and sent on our way in the dawn light, a wonderful experience clambering down the hillside path stopping frequently to watch the magical sunrise.”

RUESTA
Refuge in the two houses rehabilitated. 72 in bunk beds, hot water, heating, blankets, lounge and dining room. Sleep is 10 € - breakfast 3.50€ more. They also provide meals for 7 euros and prepare food bags for 4 euros. Phone: 948-39-80-82. http://www.ruesta.com/albergues.htm http://www.ruesta.com/precios.htm

SANGÜESA
Refuge in Labrit street. Run by the Daughters of Charity, who kept clean and cozy. It is essential to have a credential. Keys from the City residence. Phone: 948-87-00-42. 8€
Hotel Yamaguchi. Tel: 948-87-01-27; double with bath, from 40 euros.
The pension Navas. Tel: 948-87-00-77; double with shared bath, 25 euros.

Izco
Refugio, new construction. Eight beds in bunks, with hot water, kitchen and lounge. Open from May 15 to October 15. The keys are in the sale of Izco. Phone: 948-36-21-29. It costs 6€

TIEBAS
Refugio, very basic, but serves for the night.. To shower, use the front of the locker room or the pool. Voluntary donation. Keys, Jose Mari. Tel: 948-36-02-22

Puenta La Reina:
We will take a bus from here to Pamplona as Val has to fly home the next day.
http://www.laestellesa.com/servicios/Segunda.asp

Pamplona:
Albergues, hostals, hotels etc., We will probably stay at the Hostal Dom Luis in San Nicolas.

Val will be leaving us from here so it will be nice for her to have a place to spread out her stuff and repack for the return journey home.

Saturday 20th June: Camino Ingles
Marion and I take a train from Pamplona to Lugo. http://www.renfe.es/ We leave at 12h36 from Pamplona and arrive in Lugo at 21h00 (costs 46.10€ ). We will spend the night at a Hotel and get a bus or train from Lugo to Ferrol the following day.
Bus - Arriva.es ± 2 ¼ hours. Week days - 11:00, 13:15, 16:15, 18:30. Saturdays - 11:30, 16:15, 18:30 and Sundays - 16:15 and 18:30.
Train: 7h08 arrives 09h13.
We might have to have an early morning and take the train. I'd like to visit the Tourist Office for a stamp and a map and their Sunday hours are 10:00 to 12:30. The CSJ guide says:

The Tourist Office is on the first floor of a modern office block tucked into
the left hand side of the Plaza España (if facing the direction of the port)
They provide pilgrims with:
Credencial
Sello
Map out the route (showing 2 alternatives) from the city to the outskirts
A copy of the Xunta Guide in English
A schematic of the distances and elevations on the route (which isn’t terribly accurate!)
A Gallego phrasebook (which is perhaps too heavy to carry)
And…they have good toilets if setting off immediately from there!

This is the suggested itinerary for the Camino Ingles:

Ferrol – Pontedeume 25 kms (Albergue at Neda - 11km)
Pontedeume – Betanzos 20 kms (Albergue at Mino - 27km)
Betanzos – Hospital de Bruma 29 kms
Hospital de Bruma – Sigüeiro 24 kms (Hospital de Bruma 38km)
Següeiro – Santiago de Compostela 16 kms